Li "Lily" Jiang (left), Ph.D. student in apparel design, and Ling Zhang (right), associate professor in apparel, events and hospitality management, display a sample of their fit-adjustable nursing bra for new moms. Larger image. Photo by Christopher Gannon.
AMES, Iowa – Ling Zhang wasn't sure what to expect when shopping for a nursing bra.
Prior to welcoming her first child in 2012, Zhang spent five years working as a professional bra designer in New York City, where she created a wide range of designs for well-known brands, including Calvin Klein and Victoria's Secret. Zhang knew from her experience that women want and need options; that demand helps drive the intimates and shapewear industry, she says.
Nursing bras, however, were unfamiliar territory for the new mom; her previous design work hadn't ventured into maternity wear. But that was about to change, and while Zhang didn't know it at the time, her vision and next steps would eventually lead to ISU's first-ever apparel design patent.
"I remember being genuinely surprised by the lack of maternity and nursing garments available on the market, especially as a first-time mom," says Zhang, who is now an associate professor in Iowa State University's department of apparel, events and hospitality management. "There just weren't many options out there."
The limited products she was able to find, Zhang adds, often were uncomfortable and potentially unsafe to wear, thanks to the metal wires and boning used in their construction. Stiff materials can lead to clogged milk ducts in nursing mothers, which is something Zhang personally experienced. Antibiotics resolved the issue for Zhang, but for some mothers with clogged milk ducts, the only option is to stop breastfeeding altogether.
When Zhang gave birth to her daughter in 2020, she says she quickly noticed how little nursing bras had improved in the eight years since she had welcomed her son.
"It became clear to me that the maternity industry was falling short," Zhang says, "and I thought I might be able to use my research in functional apparel design to create something better for new moms."
Sewing innovation
Jiang (left) and Zhang (right) fit one of their designs on a mannequin. Larger image. Photo by Christopher Gannon.
Zhang launched her research in the fall of 2020 by analyzing dozens of nursing bras on the market and polling approximately 1,300 mothers with current or recent breastfeeding experience. The women surveyed shared their preferences for nursing bras, including price, brand, function and color.
"The top priorities were consistently comfort and fit, but a lot of the women also told us that nursing bras were ugly and didn't make them feel good about themselves," Zhang says. "New mothers go through a lot of changes with their bodies, and having something beautiful to wear can help support their confidence, too."
Zhang next created prototypes of a nursing bra and nursing babydoll garment. During a wear test, seven participants wore and washed each piece for a month and then provided detailed feedback about their experience.
Li "Lily" Jiang, an ISU Ph.D. student in apparel design, worked closely with Zhang to adjust the designs and experiment with various components based on the input received.
"I think I spent an entire summer sewing," Jiang says with a smile. "This project has been a wonderful learning experience, and I'm very proud to be part of something that helps address the real problems that new moms face."
Zhang and Jiang say their goal was to use their pattern-making skills and the strength of certain fabrics to provide support without elastic or underwire. During pregnancy and breastfeeding, a woman's weight fluctuates and it's normal to change cup sizes, but most nursing bras have limited adjustment options. Zhang and Jiang found that using alternate materials, such as ultra-soft Velcro and bamboo jersey, improved comfort while also allowing the wearer to modify the fit to meet their needs.
"Our nursing bra is extremely soft and has two front bands that can be adjusted as a woman's body changes, offering support exactly where they need it," Zhang says. "Our babydoll combines a top and a nursing bra into one piece, providing mothers with privacy and convenience without having to wear multiple separate layers."
Jiang, who has also become a new mother since coming to Iowa State, is in her fourth and final year of Ph.D. work. She has known Zhang for almost a decade; they first met at Central Michigan University when Zhang was working as an assistant professor there and Jiang was pursuing her master's degree.
Zhang accepted a new position at ISU in 2018, and when Jiang chose to pursue her Ph.D. a few years later, she decided she wanted to be a Cyclone, too.
"Dr. Zhang is the reason I came to Iowa State," Jiang says, "and I'm very glad I did."
Zhang says she feels fortunate Jiang has been part of her nursing bra research and design process from the beginning.
"Our aesthetics and vision are very matched, and we communicate well," Zhang says. "I have so much trust in Lily. She says she's learned a lot from me, but I've learned from her, too."
A big step
In November 2024, the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office approved the ISU Research Foundation's application for an apparel design patent for Zhang and Jiang's multi-layered maternity garment, marking ISU's first-ever patent in that category. Apparel design patents protect unique ornamental appearances.
"Not only is this the first apparel design patent that the ISU Research Foundation has received, but it is a foundational element of Professor Zhang's startup company," says Craig Forney, assistant director of the ISU Office of Innovation Commercialization (OIC).
Forney says the ISU Research Foundation typically files for utility patents, which pertain to the functionality of an invention. In fact, Iowa State ranks among the top 100 universities in the nation for U.S. utility patents granted, according to a National Academy of Inventors report.
Zhang's start-up company MUQIN, which means "mother" in Mandarin, currently offers a fit-adjustable nursing bra and a nursing babydoll featuring the patented design. Color options available on the MUQIN website include pink and blue.
"It's exciting to hear from women who have purchased our fit-adjustable products and love wearing them," Zhang says. "We get to see our work making a difference."
She hopes to one day sell a broader range of nursing and maternity wear, both online and in stores throughout the country.
Zhang received initial funding to do market research and develop prototypes from the ISU College of Health and Human Science's Early Career Faculty Research Grant, and she also participated in the Iowa State I-Corps program. In the fall of 2022, she was awarded a $50,000 grant from the Regents Innovation Fund and joined the ISU Startup Factory, a program under the ISU Pappajohn Center for Entrepreneurship.
"I am very grateful for the support I have received at Iowa State," Zhang says. "Innovation requires vision and passion, but support and collaboration make it possible."
