A century after Mallory and Irvine's pivotal final ascent, identical adventurers Hugo and Ross Turner will climb Mera Peak in the Himalayas, one dressed in the exact gear from the 1924 Everest expedition, the other in modern-day mountaineering equipment & clothing.
Together with a team of researchers and scientists, including those from the University of Portsmouth, the twins will investigate the performance of 100-year-old expedition gear, probing into the multifaceted question of what's changed in the 100 years since those first attempts of Everest, and what has remained the same.
Supported by the University of Portsmouth's Extreme Environments Laboratories (EEL), Hugo and Ross Turner, better known as the Turner Twins, will begin the pioneering expedition this October to research one of history's most mysterious mountaineering moments: George Mallory and Sandy Irvine's fateful 1924 Everest expedition.
It will see the Turner Twins scale Mera Peak (6,476m), Nepal's highest trekking mountain, as a controlled, high-altitude testing ground for a once-in-a-century expedition - one where scientific research meets a reimagining of one of mountaineering's most enduring stories.
The expedition will see one brother equipped with meticulously designed replica clothing and equipment from the Everest expedition in 1924, including hand-stitched wool garments from Devold of Norway and, for the first time ever, custom-made replicas of Mallory's iconic boots. Recreated in forensic detail by the British shoemaker Crockett & Jones, the boots even feature a custom upper, supposed to have been added by Mallory himself to create additional waterproofing.
The other twin wears state-of-the-art high-altitude gear by British outdoor brand, Montane, creating a striking visual representation of just how much has changed in the century since the climb.
Together, they will ascend Mera Peak while being closely monitored by researchers to examine the effects of historical equipment on thermal performance, endurance, and decision-making under extreme environmental stress.
"We want to experience the mountain with the same mindset as Mallory did, to understand the clothing systems, and highlight some never before revealed scientific data. Mera Peak gives us the altitude and exposure to test that, safely but authentically," said Hugo Turner.
The unique expedition will collect real-time physiological data from both climbers in Portsmouth's EEL - renowned for studying human limits under harsh conditions - including body temperature, cognitive performance, cortisol levels (associated with stress), dexterity and clothing durability. This will offer a rare comparative insight into how gear may have affected Mallory's chances of survival and summit success in 1924.
Testing in the Extreme Environments Laboratories at the University of Portsmouth. Copyright: University of Portsmouth.
Dr Joe Costello , Theme Lead for the Extreme Environments and Occupational Performance Research Group at the University of Portsmouth, said: "We are thrilled to be supporting The Turner Twins on this unique journey in our facilities.
"The testing carried out by the University involves two phases: metabolic and thermal monitoring during physical exertion in the mid-layers of both the modern and the replica clothing, then really cold exposure to measure how these environments affect movement, comfort, dexterity, and body temperature."
About the Extreme Environments Laboratories
The University of Portsmouth is recognised for its Extreme Environments Laboratories , which enhance understanding of human comfort, performance, and survival in challenging conditions such as high altitudes, humid jungles, and rough seas.
Insights gained from these labs are applied across diverse fields including sport, product development, emergency rescue, military training, polar exploration, and film production.
The University regularly collaborates with esteemed partners such as the Ministry of Defence, the Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents, the RNLI, and Olympic and Paralympic athletes. Notably, in 2013, actors Jake Gyllenhaal and Josh Brolin used the temperature and altitude facilities to prepare for their roles in the film Everest.
