The Dutch textile industry stands at a crossroads. Fast fashion and overconsumption are driving an ever-growing mountain of waste, while the Netherlands is committed to achieving a fully circular textile chain by 2050. But how do we get there?
Ghalia Nassar, consumer researcher at Wageningen Social & Economic Research, is investigating the current state of textile recycling in the Netherlands and the challenges that stand in the way of a fully circular system. Nassar explains: "At present, only a small proportion of textile waste is actually recycled into new garments. Most collected textiles end up in downcycling processes, such as the production of insulation materials or cleaning cloths, leading to a loss of material value. Moreover, a significant portion of textile waste remains unregistered or ends up in landfill or incineration."
Butterfly Framework
To achieve circularity goals, a deeper understanding of the bottlenecks in the textile recycling chain is essential. Nassar applies the Butterfly Framework, a WUR model that maps the interactions between the technical, ecological, and socio-economic aspects for the case of textile recycling. This approach highlights key challenges, including inadequate collection and sorting, technological limitations in recycling processes, and a lack of market demand for recycled materials. "The Butterfly Framework provides a systems approach. Textile recycling is rarely studied from such an integrated perspective, so this offers a nuanced and holistic understanding of the recycling system that is necessary for successful transitions," says Nassar.
The challenges at a glance
Technical barriers
Many garments are made from blended fabrics, such as cotton-polyester mixes, which are difficult to recycle. Mechanical recycling often results in fibre degradation and loss of quality, while chemical recycling is still in its infancy and remains expensive.
Policy and regulation
From 2025, all EU member states must organise separate textile collection, but there is still much uncertainty about how this will be effectively implemented. Legislation surrounding recycled materials is fragmented, hindering innovation.
Consumer behaviour
Many consumers are unaware of the impact of their clothing choices and do not recycle textiles properly. Moreover, there remains a strong preference for cheap, new clothing over more expensive, sustainable alternatives.
Market dynamics
Recycled materials compete with cheap, virgin raw materials. As long as recycled fabrics remain more expensive and of lower quality than new materials, demand will remain limited to niche markets, keeping the textile industry largely linear.
Increasing recycling rates
Despite these challenges, the transition to a circular textile industry offers tremendous opportunities. "Smarter recycling technologies and circular product design - where garments are created with reuse in mind from the outset - can help increase recycling rates. In addition, closer collaboration between governments, businesses, and consumers is essential. Governments can encourage sustainable innovation through policy and subsidies, while businesses can invest in sustainable textile production and collection processes," says Nassar.
But the real key to success? Producing less and consuming more consciously. Only by changing our purchasing behaviour, making our clothes last longer, and opting for reuse more often, can we create a fashion industry that is not only stylish but also future-proof. Nassar: "Our WSER research provides a valuable foundation for researchers, policymakers, and businesses to take collective steps towards a more sustainable value chain for textiles. I would like to see the circular economy prioritising environmental impacts over economic opportunities, to allow for actual reduction in material flows and support sustainable consumer behaviour change."
